Assignment 1 : RESEARCH & IDEA FINDINGS ( ZERO WASTE DESIGN )

 [ DST64304 ]

LECTURER : MISS MARIA 

ASSIGNMENT 1 : RESEARCH & IDEA FINDINGS

 (ZERO WASTE FASHION) 

WEEK 1 - WEEK 3

Assignment 1 Brief (from MIB) : 

Requirement 

In this project, we required to use MIRO Board to present our research findings of Zero Waste Fashion. Before we start, we have to form a group of 2 and my partner is Sharon Lee.

Week 1 

Today we had a Welcoming Talk session with Mr. Andrew Tan, Miss Maria and our programme lecturers. This is the first time I have ever seen so many people gather in Mayamode Studio and this excites me. Although I can't make it to campus due to Covid-19, but I'm still able to feel the environment and atmosphere through the online session. 

In week 1, Ms Maria brief us about what is ZERO WASTE FASHION. 

ZERO WASTE FASHION

- a collection using innovative Pattern Drafting Technique to create Zero Waste Fashion. It refers to items of clothing that generate little or no textile waste in their production.

The GOALS of Zero waste Fashion is to create a new design innovation. It is a solution to reduce apparel production waste because it produce an effective pattern placement technique. With this technique, we can achieve 99%-100% efficacy of materials used. It also includes Master Flat Pattern Technique. 

Why Develop a ZWF?

Miss told us that according to the research, 60 billion square meters of fabric waste which is the remaining of 400 billion square meters of fabric produced to make clothing. Fashion becomes the 2nd largest waste producer. In this case, we have to find solutions to reduce the clothing production waste.

To achieve Zero Waste Fashion, we have to start with:

1. focus on Geometrical based pattern making technique

2. use Flat Pattern Technique and try to visualise with prototyping method

Week 1 - 2

Research 

Technique

There are 2 types of technique that can be use for Zero Waste Fashion.

1. Flat Pattern-Cutting Technique 

Patterns fit together like puzzle, it is a traditional lay plans with fixed design. We have to know the width of fabric and normally we use laser cut. This technique can minimise time consumption on cutting process. 

There are Geometrical Cut and Precarious Cut in Pattern Cutting technique. 

Geometrical Cut

Precarious Cut

2. Garment Draping Technique

The process of positioning and pinning the fabric on mannequin is called draping. Garment draping is to drape a Zero Waste Fashion design using rectangle/ square piece of fabric. There is no cutting or sewing method involved. Volume and panel/ layers are what we focus on for this technique.

Application

1. Flat Pattern-Cutting 

2. Garment Draping

Materials 

There are two types of fibres that common used to make materials in Zero Waste Fashion. 

1. Natural Organic Fibres

Cotton 

a type of natural cloth created out of the cotton plant fibres.

Characteristic: breathable, soft, durable and comfortable

Disadvantages: poor elasticity, shrinks badly, highly flammable and stains easily

Uses of cotton: essential tools, sheet masks, home furnishing: pillow, curtain

Wool

a type of fabric derived from the hairs of various animals.

Characteristic: elastic, warm, soft and crimp

Disadvantages: expensive, prone to distortion, stains easily

Uses of wool: carpet, blanket, upholstery, hard crafts: hand embroidery 

Hemp

a type of textile that is made using fibres from the stalks of the Cannabis sativa plant. The versatility of hemp fibre makes it an ideal material for a variety of uses, from paper and canvas to clothing and ropes.

Characteristic: absorbent, strong, durable and hard

Disadvantages: expensive, lacks colour and bad reputation

Uses of hemp: clothes or textile, ropes and canvas, building materials, shoes, hats

Bamboo

bamboo textile is any cloth, yarn or clothing made from bamboo fibre. Bamboo fibres are all cellulose fibre extracted or fabricated from natural bamboo, but they vary widely. 

Characteristic: light weight, flexible, tough and high tensile

Disadvantages: require preservation, shrinkage

Uses of bamboo: textiles, clothes, cultural arts: martial art, roofing designing 

2. Synthetic Man-made Fibres

Polyester

a synthetic material made from polymerisation of petroleum-derived ethylene glycol and purified terephthalic acid, which meltdown to produce polyethylene terephthalate (PET)

Characteristic: durable, moisture-resistant, retains its shape, can be coarse, typically non-biodegradable 

Disadvantages: lack of breathability, lack of moisture absorption, environmental concerns, comfort issues, health concerns

Uses of Polyester: outdoor apparel, bags and backpacks, microfibre items, upholstery and home furnishings

Spandex

the name of "spandex" is an anagram of the word "expands". Spandex is a synthetic fabrics, made from chemically manipulated petrochemicals, are some of the most toxic fabrications on Earth.

Characteristic: lightweight, elastic, stretchable, abrasion resistant, strong

Disadvantages: it breaks down in heat, not biodegradable, polluting

Uses of spandex: clothing, skin-tight garment, compression garment

Nylon

Characteristic: water repellent, resilience, durability, smooth, elasticity, 

Disadvantages: polluting, lack of breathability, low absorbency, not biodegradable, easily overstretched

Uses of nylon: swimsuits, hosiery, lightweight, waterproof jacket

Acrylic

similar texture as wool, boomed onto the market in the 1960s. Acrylic fabric produced artificially through a synthetic polymer known as acrylonitrile. 

Characteristic:colourfast, durable, warm, rugged, resists shrinking

Disadvantages: least breathable, sensitive to heat

Uses of acrylic: sweatshirts, hoodies, jackets, athletic wear, protective equipment and clothing

Pattern

Garment Draping 

Master Flat Pattern 

Culture and Historical Elements

Sarong

Sarong is a length of fabric wrapped around the waist or over the bust. Not a pattern, per se because there is no cutting involved. However, it illustrates the nature of many no-waste traditional garments that put regional and culturally-specific textiles front and center.

( photo credits: mythailand.blog )

Traditional Andean Poncho

Traditionally worn by men. Poncho is a simple garment that celebrates culturally rich handwoven textiles while allowing the wearer the warmth and the mobility to work out of doors. It is a rectangle or square of handwoven textile with a slit in the center for the head to slip through.

(Photo credit: kuodatravel.com)

Modern Guatemala Huipils

Mesoamerican traditional garments. Huipil is a Mayan garment traditionally worn by women and girls. It is a basic rectangle, folded in half at the shoulder, with a square or small rounded head opening and side seam openings to create sleeves that cover the shoulder. Colorful, intricate and region specific embroidery is featured on these garments, concentrated at the neckline. The variety shown here are examples of huipils from the highlands of Guatemala, where warmer and thicker fabrics are used.

(Photo credit: https://samnoblemuseum.ou.edu/)

Kemben 

Kemben is an Indonesian female torso wrap historically common in Java, Bali and other part of Indonesian archipelago. It is made by wrapping a piece of fabrics, either plain, batik printed, velvet, or any type of fabrics, covering the chest wrapped around the woman's torso.

(photo credits: https://images.app.goo.gl/hS1TAvupgQfm8AVV8)

Kimono 

The kimono is a traditional Japanese garment and the national dress of Japan. The kimono is a T-shaped, wrapped-front garment with square sleeves and a rectangular body, and is worn left side wrapped over right, unless the wearer is deceased. It is cut in rectangular shapes of patterns which leads to zero wastage.

Artistic Direction

Designers with designs or brands:

Charlotte Bialas 

Based in Paris. She uses vintage textiles from the 1950s to 80s from top French fashion houses. These fabrics are cut into different geometrical shapes in order to create distinctive designs. Any scraps that are created by using this method are then used in other products. Her designs are unique and often non-western such as the Japanese Kimono or the Indian sari. The clothing comes in all forms and sizes, and her customers include women from all over the world.

( http://www.charlottebialas.com/index.php? )

Malaika

Based in New York. She is very detail oriented & loves architecture which clearly shows in her design aesthetic. Her goal with Malaika New York is to give women the opportunity to feel comfortable yet modern wearing sustainable fashion. She says "Sustainable fashion should be cool and fun not bland".

( https://malaikanewyork.com/ )

Dr. Mark Liu

He has developed what he calls "Non-Euclidean Fashion Pattern Making", a unique jigsaw manufacturing procedure that has made him a recognised pioneer in the sustainable fashion movement. He ran a Zero-Waste Fashion label for several years and has exhibited in Estethica at London Fashion Week. He said that his approach to zero-waste design has always been to understand the underlying structure and function of  fashion pattern making.

( http://www.drmarkliu.com/dr-mark-liu-gallery/#itemId=57fa691fd1758eb0546a4064 )

Farah Floyd 

Based in Berlin, this Euro-chic fashion label is led by designer Bojana Draca. Draca's zero-waste pattern drafting was developed over many years. The concept around this system is to cut textiles into rectangles of different sizes and fit together in a grid formation across the fabric and no waste in produced. The ultimate garment boasts a unique, somewhat artistic silhouette. It can be easily customised with accessories and creative styling. 

( https://farrahfloyd.com/ )

Julian Roberts

He developed a SUBTRACTION TECHNIQUE. By cutting holes into the fabric and then using the openings to thread and drape the fabric over the body. He creates extraordinary, sculptural shapes. This technique can lead to garments being worn in multiple forms, creating a flexible garment with increased longevity. https://youtu.be/N2xnUoCVWbI

 

Zero Waste Designs

Reshape 18

Idea Findings

For the idea findings of Zero Waste Fashion project, I focused on 4 categories which are colour, material, technique, artistic direction and strength. 

I decided to use earth tones of colour for my ZWF designs and I chose either cotton, bamboo or hemp for the material. As we are learning Garment Draping Technique in this semester, so I think I'll just use it as a method for this project. Refer to the designers on Instagram, I think that @toktam.hemmati and @ewstfashion are the artistic direction that I'll go for. Last but not least, I think the strength for this Zero Waste Fashion project is that it is durable, sustainable, comfortable and flexible. 

Link to MIRO BOARD: 

https://miro.com/app/board/uXjVOApdzsg=/?share_link_id=669420786177